Whether or not you realize it, the state of your skin and hair are largely dictated by the environment around you (even indoors). The amount of moisture in the air will often determine how nourished and soft your skin feels (or the opposite). This is why we often have our “best complexion” in hot, humid weather—but that’s also when our hair is on the fritz because the humidity opens the cuticle and depletes each strand of its natural moisture. What about winter’s dry and cold air, then, specifically as it pertains to the skin?
The dry air pulls all moisture from our skin, unless we interfere by using hydrating and barrier-reinforcing products (to retain that moisture). These efforts are easily undone, however, by taking long, hot showers or sleeping in a bone-dry room for 8 hours. So naturally, your skincare regimen needs to evolve with the dropping temps, says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman of the Shafer Clinic in N.Y.C. Read on for Engelman’s core advice for building a smart skincare routine in winter.
Swap in Heavier Hydrators
Among the most important changes you can make in winter is to use thicker, heavier creams as the last step in your daytime and nighttime regimens, says Engelman. So, swap out light creams and lotions until the temps rise and the air gets more moisture. “Dry, cold climates put our skin at a greater risk for dehydrated, cracked, and flaky skin,” Engelman says.
To counter this, she recommends products that use ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides in their formulas, all to help bind moisture to the skin barrier. But above all, make sure it has an occlusive base to “trap” those ingredients and your own natural moisture inside the skin. (Optimal ingredients include shea butter, jojoba oil, and ceramides.) Don’t hesitate to reapply throughout the day, and appreciate that you’ll wake up with a more rejuvenated, brighter complexion.
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Reduce Exfoliation
It might seem intuitive to exfoliate more in winter—dry, flaking, built-up skin, etc—but try to resist the urge. Engelman advises reducing exfoliation as skin becomes more dry, since in this state, the skin’s natural oil barrier is also more susceptible, and any abrasive scrubs or chemical exfoliants can further compromise the ability to retain moisture.
That doesn’t mean you need to nix exfoliation entirely, but instead opt for gentler formulas, and use them less often. (Typically, a high-grade exfoliant could be used every 2-3 days, so just double that buffer to every 5 or 6 days until things warm up.)
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Double Down on Lip Care
Your lips have extremely thin, delicate skin compared to other areas, hence why they crack so easily and often in winter. “Be sure to incorporate a moisturizing lip treatment into your daily routine,” Engleman says. “I recommend carrying a tube with you so you can reapply throughout the day.”
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Use Warm (Not Hot) Water
It can be tempting to take a long, hot shower during these colder months, but that is going to be extremely damaging for your skin (and your hair, too). “Hot water can extract moisture from the skin barrier, so it’s important to shower in warm water rather than hot,” Engelman says. “I also suggest lathering your body in a thick lotion or cream right after a shower while your skin is slightly damp. This will lock in moisture for optimal hydration.
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Choose Mild, Non-Drying Cleansers
Engelman also advises avoiding soaps with harsh fragrances and suds-building sulfates, since these can further dry out your skin after you wash them. Ditto for face washes, body washes, hand washes, shampoos, and any other detergents you might use. Look first for “indicator” words like “hydrating”, “non-drying”, “moisturizing”, since some synthetic formulas may lack the otherwise obvious active ingredients you might look for in a nourishing cleanser (like certain oils, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera).
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Sleep Near a Humidifier
Here’s a sleeper tip that could make a profound difference: There’s a good chance your bedroom is too dry in winter, and you’re just sleeping in it for 6-8 hours every night; there’s a good chance that your night cream may start to wear thin by the time you wake up, too. So, sleeping with a humidifier in the room can add that necessary moisture to the air, which Engelman assures will prevent your skin from drying out due to the dry air (even that from central heating).
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Use SPF Every Day
Please wear SPF year round, even in winter—and especially at high altitudes or when you’re surrounded by a blanket of snow. UV rays can penetrate clouds and glass as well as reflect off snow, so it’s imperative to keep this step in your routine every single day. “An SPF that doubles as a moisturizer will protect your skin from harmful UV rays while adding an extra layer of hydration,” Engelman adds. It’s a great way to never forget the SPF, either, since you’re already moisturizing regularly. “And reapply throughout the day,” Engelman urges.
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