Look, we get it—you might not have cared much about your skin when you were younger because you thought you didn’t need to. Lots of men feel that way. Lots of men, most men we venture to say, also start noticing changes to their faces starting in their forties. These changes, like crinkling around your eyes or dark spots on your cheeks, seem like they happen overnight and when you notice them, it can be jarring. Instead of shaking your fists at your younger self for not taking care of your mug sooner, start a skincare routine ASAP. While it’s true that prevention is always better than a cure, “it’s never too late to start addressing aging skin, just like it’s never too late to go to the gym,” says dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research, Department of Dermatology at Mt. Sinai in New York City. We’re here to help.
What Happens To Your Skin In Your 40s
The reason you may start noticing wrinkles and other issues like blotchiness or dryness in your forties isn’t because they pop out of nowhere. “You just hit a tipping point,” says New York City-based dermatologist Kenneth Howe, M.D. Aging and other skin issues actually happen slowly over time, but you probably didn’t even notice them until they became obvious enough to catch your attention.
For instance, collagen loss actually starts way earlier. “We all start losing about 1% of collagen every year over the age of 20 and we definitely start to see those changes by 40,” says Houston-based dermatologist DiAnne Davis, M.D. “Over time, loss of collagen leads to skin that is drier with a rougher texture and not as plump or hydrated as it was in the younger years.” Sun damage is similarly cumulative since our skin’s antioxidant response also declines as we get older, which means the natural defenses against damage become weaker over time and can also lead to common skin complaints like dark spots, dilated blood vessels, and uneven color.
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How To Start A Skincare Routine In Your 40s
“While you cannot undo the damage your skin has already been exposed to, you can prevent further damage and help reverse some of the changes that have occurred,” says Dr. Zeichner. The first step is adopting a skincare routine focused on preventing environmental damage during the day and repairing skin at night. “It doesn’t have to be complicated to be effective,” he says. This is how to do it.
8 Skincare Tips for Men Over 40
1. Wear Sunscreen Every Day
Almost all of the skin changes you may start seeing in your 40s could be linked to one thing: sun damage. And that doesn’t mean sunburns; our skin is affected by the sun every day no matter if it’s sunny outside or not. “UV light is the biggest environmental factor that leads to both premature aging and skin cancers,” says Dr. Zeichner. UV exposure can weaken the collagen in skin, which is already declining by age 40, and affect the very foundation of your skin, which in effect can also lead to dark spots by increasing production of pigment, more visible pores, and redness and broken capillaries by causing blood vessels to grow.
How to deal with all of this? “Start wearing sunscreen daily,” says Dr. Zeichner. “Sunscreen has been proven to lower the risk of developing skin cancer, prevent premature aging, and even reverse signs of aging. This is likely because protected skin can better repair itself.” We’re not just talking about slapping it on if you’re going to the beach or doing some yard work. Apply a lightweight facial sunscreen like every morning. Many dermatologists recommend a mineral-based sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide like Elta MD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF 46, which provide physical protection against UV rays, but some men find chemical sunscreens, like Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50, lighter and easier to wear. Whichever you choose, it should be one that you will actually wear every day and should have a minimum of SPF 30.
2. Wash Your Face
You may have thought you could get away with splashing water on your face and calling it a day when you were younger, but now is the time to move on from that thinking. Proper cleansing is important no matter what your age, but it’s especially essential in your 40s as you develop a more targeted skincare routine. “Cleansing the face daily removes dirt and oil and unclogs pores,” says Dr. Davis, “and without proper cleansing, it makes it difficult for other products to penetrate and have an effect on skin.”
Use a specific facial cleanser every night to strip away dirt and pollutants that accumulate on your skin throughout the day. If your skin is oily or acne prone, Dr. Davis recommends a cleanser like Proactiv Renewing Cleanser that contains benzoyl peroxide or La Roche-Posay Effaclar Acne Face Wash with salicylic acid to help control oil and breakouts. And if you have sensitive skin, she recommends a gentle cleanser like CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser.
3. Exfoliate Your Skin Regularly
The typical life cycle of your skin cells is around 28 days, but as you age, it gets longer. That means it takes longer to get rid of dead skin cells and they can hang out on the surface of your skin longer, leaving your complexion looking dull. Exfoliation helps send those dead cells on their way. “If you’re exfoliating regularly, your skin will look better,” says Dr. Howe, “but you’ll also get better penetration of whatever you’re applying.” Use a gentle exfoliating toner like Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner a few times a week after washing your face to keep everything fresh and primed.
4. Introduce Retinol to Your Skincare Routine
“Retinol or vitamin A is a great one-shot particularly for men,” says Dr. Howe. “Using a retinol product will stimulate collagen growth in the skin” to help address signs of aging and “push back against depletion from sun.” But while retinol is best known as an anti-aging ingredient, it does more than that. An ability to help regulate and increase cell-turnover, which declines with age, means it can also address other issues like acne, enlarged pores, and pigmentation issues. As far as skincare ingredients go, it can help treat almost everything.
Even though retinol is good for everyone, it does come with a disclaimer. “The most common side effect is that retinol can be drying and can be hard on sensitive skin,” says Dr. Howe. If you’ve never used retinol before, start with a product with a low percentage like Differin 0.1% Adapalene Gel and apply it once a week to see if your skin reacts. Gradually work your way up till you can use it every night. Only use retinol at night and always wear sunscreen during the day.
5. Replenish Antioxidants
Since the amount of natural antioxidants in your skin declines with age, adding the back in by using an antioxidant serum can help “put out fires before they start,” according to Dr. Howe. When UV light hits the skin, it forms free radicals which lead to damage and signs of aging, but “if an antioxidant is present, it will quench the free radicals,” he says. It’s not just UV rays either—antioxidants can also help protect against environmental pollutants and possibly even blue light from screens, which growing data shows can have a similar effect on skin as sunlight. Applying an antioxidant-rich serum, like Hyper Clear Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum that contains both vitamin C and kojic acid, in the morning before your sunscreen is a multilayered defense against possible antioxidant damage.
6. Tackle Dark Spots in Your 40s
Dark spots, known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, can happen at any time but become a bigger complaint as we age, thanks to the cumulative effect of UV damage and inflammation. They’re caused by trauma to the skin like from previous acne, eczema, or rashes, says Dr. Davis, and “once there is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation the sun stimulates melanogenesis which makes the pigment last longer.” Wearing sunscreen is key to preventing and treating dark spots, especially among people with darker skin tones who are more prone to hyperpigmentation. Adding a serum specifically designed for treating dark spots can also help even skin tone and fade existing spots. Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense contains Niacinamide and kojic acid to help lighten dark spots and prevent new ones from popping up.
7. Men Over 40 Need to Moisturize!
Along with the loss of collagen, our skin’s ability to hold on to moisture declines with age, which can lead to thirsty and dry-looking skin. That’s not all—moisture levels change on a day to day basis. “Skin hydration levels start to decline in the afternoon and continue into the evening,” says Dr. Zeichner, who recommends applying a moisturizer both morning and night. A gentle moisturizer, like Cetaphil Daily Oil-Free Hydrating Lotion, will help keep skin hydrated and could even help with more serious issues like some forms of rosacea, which is common with men in their forties and “is worsened by dryness,” says Dr. Howe.
8. Your Lifestyle Might Affect Your Skin
Developing an effective skincare routine is your first step in battling the changes you may see in your 40s, but if you’re really worried, consider examining more than just your medicine cabinet. “Skin reflects our overall health,” says Dr. Howe. “Especially when it comes to things like tone or vibrancy, those things which are aesthetic give us health information. It’s not a quantifiable warning sign, but it’s part of the equation.” Diet, for instance, has a proven effect on skin. “Not only can high glycemic (sugary) foods promote acne breakouts, but can also lead to a hardening of collagen which can become stiff or crack,” points out Dr. Zeichner. Regular exercise can also support skin cell health by helping them function better, he says.
Check Out These Skincare Products for Men Over 40:
CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser
Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner
Differin Gel Acne Treatment
Hyper Skin Hyper Clear Vitamin C Serum
Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense
Cetaphil Daily Oil-Free Hydrating Lotion with Hyaluronic Acid
EltaMD UV Clear Facial Sunscreen Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Sunscreen
Garrett Munce writes about men’s style and grooming. He’s written for Esquire, New York Magazine, Spotlyte, and Very Good Light and held staff positions at GQ and W. Follow his skincare obsession on Instagram at @garrettmunce.