Ask a skincare expert: What makes a good skincare routine?

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The most valuable thing you can do as a skincare lover is to see an expert, such as a dermal therapist or dermatologist, and have your skin evaluated, says Dr Vania Sinovich.

This article first appeared in The House of Wellness magazine.

Dr Vania Sinovich, MBBCh MRCP FRACP, discusses the benefits of a good skincare routine and how to choose the right products.

The choice of skincare products on the market can often be overwhelming and advice may be conflicting. The most valuable thing you can do as a skincare lover is to see an expert, such as a dermal therapist or dermatologist, and have your skin evaluated.

Cleansers

Cleansing is a vital step in your skincare routine as it’s the preparation for your other products. For the majority of skin types, a foaming gel cleanser is ideal, providing it is pH-balanced and free of sodium lauryl sulphate. A cream cleanser is good for dry or mature skin, while skin that is prone to acne responds well to a mildly acidic cleanser with lactic or mandelic acid to help with gentle exfoliation.

Serums

Essential in your twice-daily skincare routine, serums are a method of achieving a concentrated delivery of biologically active ingredients, such as vitamin C, vitamin B or vitamin A, that target specific skin conditions like fine lines and wrinkles, redness, pigmentation, blemishes, congestion, dehydration or irritation. Think of them as a power boost for the skin. Not all serums are equal, however, so it is important to look for science to support the claims or consult a skin expert. Serums should always be applied before you moisturise.

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The level of hydration your skin requires is both personal and skin-condition related, says Dr Vania Sinovich.

Moisturiser

Moisturisers lock in your essential serums. They range in consistency from milk, lotion or cream-based. The level of hydration your skin requires is both personal and skin-condition related. Some people like a dewy look for the day – a non-oily glow that maintains hydration. Conversely, there are skincare users who prefer a more matte finish as a way of controlling oil production.

Exfoliation

As we age, natural exfoliation slows down and we can end up with rough, dull, uneven skin. Chemical exfoliants, which are usually available in serums, include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as lactic acid, which help remove dead cells and improve natural moisture levels, while beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid help to unclog pores and reduce inflammation. Chemical exfoliants should be used on a weekly or twice-weekly basis at most. Physical exfoliants are basically scrubbing agents (eg, rice bran, jojoba beads, coffee grounds). If used vigorously they can damage the delicate skin surface or cause fine blood vessels to be visible.

Sunscreen

Sunlight plays a significant part in accelerating the skin’s ageing process, particularly in combination with environmental pollution. It is important to find a sunscreen that suits your skin condition, has a high SPF, is broad spectrum and meets the Australian and New Zealand Sunscreen Standard.

There are two categories of sunscreen – chemical and physical. Physical sunscreens contain zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxides that provide a physical barrier to harmful UVA and UVB rays. If you have sensitive, rosacea- prone skin, physical sunscreens may be preferable. Tinted physical sunscreens that contain iron oxides are useful if you suffer from melasma. Chemical sunscreens contain a number of filters that absorb UV light and, via a chemical reaction, convert it to heat, which is released from the body. Some filters have been associated with allergic reactions and skin sensitivity. The biggest way to prevent photoaging is to wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or greater every single day.